Left-Handed RGM 151 Models Available

We have now added a left-handed version of one of our most popular watches to our website.  http://www.rgmwatches.com/watches#/model-151/.  You can now order a 151-P, 151-PW, or a 151-B in the left-hand configuration with the crown at 9pm.  Only available in the non-date version.

Model 151 

The 151 models have an American made case in either stainless steel, or titanium.  Any version can be polished, brushed, or a combination of both finishes.  The thin bezel and large dial are a hallmark of the 151 models, in fact the dial is larger than watches of a much greater size.  The case is thin for its diameter and curves comfortably to the wrist.

Movement Caliber: RGM-ETA 2892-A2 - Automatic, 21 jewels, 28,800 vph. Rhodium  finish - Cote de Geneve lines and perlage

Functions: Hour / Minute / Second / Date on some models

Case: American Made 316L Stainless Steel, or CP2 Titanium, 38.5 mm x 9.9 mm. Sapphire crystal front and back, 20mm lug width and water-resistant to 5-ATM.

Weight: 2.0 oz. in stainless steel

RGM In the 2015 "Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève"

This is the first time RGM has ever had a watch in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.  The RGM 801-COE "Corps of Engineers" will be competing in the Mens Watch Category against 32 other watches.  We are very excited and looking forward to this years event!

Here is a link to the watches in all 12 categories.  CLICK HERE

 

 

FOUNDATION  http://www.gphg.org

The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève was created in 2001.

The Foundation of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) -  

The Foundation annually organises the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), which is intended to salute the excellence of worldwide horological production and annually rewards the finest creations and the most important operators in the watchmaking sector.

The GPHG prize giving ceremony held in November of each year at Grand Théâtre de Genève draws elite representatives of the international watchmaking profession.

The watches pre-selected for the GPHG, as well as the winners, take part in a travelling exhibition that enables an international audience to discover and admire the finest timepieces of the year, exceptionally united on this occasion. This exhibition is held each year during the months of October and November in the countries that generate the greatest interest in the watch market.

To serve the best interests of the industry, the Foundation of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) ensures the expertise of an Advisory Committee of the profession. This Committee, which meets annually, is to advise the members of the Foundation Board, particularly regarding the selection of the jury. It is open to all leaders of watch brands and recognized experts in the field.



RGM Model 250 Available Again

We were out of cases for a while but now we can build the Model 250 again, the 250-V "Vintage" , and we can also offer a few Model 250-E's since we have a  small supply of Guilloché dials available.  We've not had the 250-E available for years. 

One thing I like about the large Valgranges movements is the position of the calendar. In a 42mm watch the calendar is located towards the outside of the dial and looks very balanced. Many watches this size have a smaller movement which brings the calendar too close to the center of the watch to look good.   Also, the calendar window on the Valganges movements is a little larger, making it easier to read.

 

Details on the Model 250:

The 250 is a good size watch in diameter and in thickness, well suited for a larger wrist. The large Valgranges movement fills up the back of the watch and puts the calendar window in the ideal location for a watch of this size.

Movement Caliber: RGM/Valgrange - Automatic, 25 jewels, 28,800 vph. Rhodium, finished in - Cote de Geneve, perlage

Functions: Hour / Minute / Second / Date 

Case: Brushed & Polished Stainless Steel. 42.0mm X 15.0mm. Sapphire crystal front and back, 22 mm lug width and water-resistant to 5-ATM.

Weight: 3.3 oz. in stainless steel

Watch Artwork and Drawings from the Past

I have always loved the detail and beauty the watch companies put in their artwork and advertising drawings back in the day. Elgin watch company made some very nice detailed movement drawings with see through sections giving you a peek of what's inside.  In fact I had a few framed drawings from Elgin back in the 1980's that I bought at a flea market called Shupps Grove in Adamstown, PA.  I donated them to the NAWCC museum back then.   

There is a huge framed drawing of a railroad movement from Elgin on display at the NAWCC museum similar to the small versions I had donated; if you visit the museum look for it.  It's a true masterpiece! 

Keep those watches ticking,

Roland




Custom Options for Many RGM Models

Here at RGM we are well known for making full custom watches, but we can also customize existing RGM models, this can be done much faster and can help personalize that gift, or mark that significant moment.

Here is more information from our Custom page. Including pictures of options like Etching the inside of the case-back crystal, Engraving the case on the side or back. or Printing on an existing dial.

Only a select group of companies today will produce one-of-a-kind fine watches upon request. At RGM, it is a source of pride that the company is small enough to offer such exclusivity, yet experienced and knowledgeable enough to offer a wide array of options to the discerning watch buyer.

Customization's can range from the simple to the sublime. A "production model" RGM watch--the Ref. 151, for example--could be customized with a unique dial or a personalized engraved rotor. Such modifications represent the more cost-effective ways for an enthusiast to obtain a unique example of an already limited-production watch. However, for the wristwatch connoisseur who desires a truly unique piece, RGM can accommodate by creating a bespoke timepiece designed and assembled completely in-house. From a custom-built time-only piece based upon a rare vintage movement to a decorated and personalized complicated watch with repetition minutes or tourbillon, RGM is able to accommodate a multitude of special requests.

Whether you choose from one of RGM's already exclusive lines or decide to explore your options for a custom-built watch, the RGM team is at your disposal to help you acquire and create the watch of your dreams.  

Unique Hands on Workshops and Seminars

 

Below is information from our website about our first ever workshop on Engine-Turning.  

We only have one spot open, so if your game give us a call!!!!

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For the first time ever we will be hosting occasional workshops.  Space is limited - sign up early.

 

Introduction to Guilloché (Engine-Turning) - Saturday August 15, 2015.  

Instructor: Roland Murphy

Location: RGM, 801 West Main St., Mount Joy, PA 17552 USA

This is a one day class, 8:30 am - 3:00 pm, for a maximum of 4 people. ONLY ONE SPOT REMAING

The following is included in this class

1. Learn the basics of how a Rose Engine works.

2. Practice cutting patterns in brass to get the feel for the machine.

3. Lunch 11:45 am to 12:30 pm.

4. Guilloché a solid Argentium Silver disc.

5. Make the disc into a necklace pendant by drilling a precise hole and adding a jewelry fitting for use with a chain. Each participant keeps their finished pendant.

Sign-up: rgmwatches@aol.com 

Price: $750 per person, deposit of $250 is required to confirm your reservation.  Full payment is due 1 month before event.  

Cancellation policy: If cancelled 4 weeks or more in advance, a fee of $100 will be charged.  If cancelled within 4 weeks of event, a fee of $250 will be charged. 

 

The RGM Trade in Program

Below is information from our trade-in program page here on our web-site.  Since starting this program a few years back it has been very successful.  It opened up the opportunity for clients to turn watches they do not use, or wanted to replace into cash towards a new RGM watch.

 I remember wondering why I did not think of doing it sooner.

Regards, Roland

Watch Trade-In Program

This program allows customers the convenience to trade in a watch or watches they already own toward the purchase of a new RGM watch.

You have the option to trade any mechanical watch: Rolex , Omega etc.
Pocket watches & Vintage watches are welcome for trade as well.

Not all watches are eligible to be traded in, but as with everything at RGM, we will do our best to satisfy you, the customer.

The major benefit in trading in a watch is that you can instantly use it toward the purchase of your new RGM watch. No need to try to sell your watch on your own, which in many cases can be difficult. Of course, if you do sell your watch on your own, you could realize a higher value, but that does come at considerable effort and possible risk.

If you want to consider trading in a watch or watches, we would need to see the watch to inspect it before we can give any firm value towards a purchase.

There are several factors that determine what we can offer as a trade-in value for your watch:

  • Current market value, based on auction results and other factors.
  • Condition of watch, and if it is complete.
  • Cost to refurbish the watch so we can resell it with a warranty.
  • How desirable the watch is on the pre-owned market.

The original retail price normally has little or nothing to do with the value of any pre-owned watch.

If you would like your watch evaluated as a trade toward a new RGM watch, please contact us. Please provide which RGM model you are interested in purchasing and information on the watch or watches you would like to trade.  rgmwatches@aol.com


RGM's Grand Feu (French for “Great Fire”) Glass Enamel Dials

The obstacle was finding an artisan who could create a high-quality Grand Feu (French for “Great Fire”) enamel dial. There are only a handful of master enamelers worldwide. We would only consider doing a real enamel dial, not something that just sort of fakes it, if you’re going to do it, do it right.  The dials had to be made exactly the same way the original dials were made. An enamel dial will not fade, it will look the same in 100 years as it does today. We searched for three years to find an enamel artist with the skill needed and that would work with us.

 Creating an enamel watch dial is a high-risk art. Enameling is a technique in which colored powdered glass is applied to a metal plate. The surface is then heated to a temperature high enough to cause the powdered glass to melt and form a new surface. The Grand Feu technique ups the stakes. It involves meticulously coating a watch dial with successive layers of enamel. Once a layer is ready, the dial is heated at extremely high temperatures, ranging from 1472-1652°F (800-900°C). The repeated baking of each individual layer ensures a uniquely crisp aesthetic while permanently setting the enamel. Using high heat to create these beautiful dials also poses a risk. Each time it is re-fired, the danger of cracking, melting, or burning increases. The track and numerals are also baked into the surface. With great risk comes great reward: the appearance of a real glass enamel dial is unmistakable. It has depth and beauty in the hand made surface that draws you in.

Being able to have real Glass Enamel to go with our hand made Guilloché is very satisfying.   We continue to bring true art to our watchmaking. 

Roland Murphy

RGM Watch Co.: Where Past & Present Manifest

The article below is from the NAWCC website "link".

RGM Watch Co.: Where Past & Present Manifest

by Keith Lehman

It’s hard to believe that one of the last true US watchmakers resides in the humble town of Mount Joy, PA—population 7,410—but it’s true. Roland G. Murphy, founder of RGM Watch Co., has married his talents in watchmaking and his appreciation of local and national history into a successful business founded on inspiration.

 

To better understand the gestalt of Murphy’s body of work, a brief horologic and geographic history of Lancaster County will help. Pennsylvania’s south central county, one of the oldest inland settlements of the United States, has deep and notable roots in clockmaking and watchmaking. Influenced from other famous businesses and technologically driven industries, including Conestoga Wagons, Lancaster Rifles, and Stiegel Glassworks, the county, from 1750 to 1850, boasted more clockmakers than any other settlement not only in Pennsylvania but most of the other colonies and states during that 100-year time frame.

 

Watchmaking came to Lancaster County in 1874 with the arrival of John C. Adams, known as “The Great American Starter,” who started six other watchmaking firms, including Illinois Watch Co. Although his businesses and  many other start-up companies in the county were not successful, the stage was ultimately set for ventures like the Ezra F. Bowman Technical School and Hamilton Watch Co., one of the most famous and innovative watchmaking companies in the world. The National Watch & Clock Museum, founded by the National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors (NAWCC) in 1977, is only seven miles from RGM Watch Co.

Murphy holding both an original Corps of Engineers pocketwatch (left) and his latest creation, the 801-COE "Corps of Engineers." Photo credit: Keith Lehman.

Originally Florin Trust Bank (built 1915) now current address of RGM Watch Co.,

801 West Main St. Mount Joy, PA. Photo credit: RGM Watch Co.

Medium Is the Message

 

Since the Hamilton factory closed in 1969, RGM, founded in 1992 with a staff of 12, is the only US-based watch company to design and manufacture its own movements. It is also the first US company to serially produce a tourbillon watch—a truly impressive achievement. So what is it that drives  Murphy to continue the tradition of watchmaking in Lancaster County? A native of Baltimore, MD, Murphy studied at the Ezra F. Bowman Technical School in Lancaster and the famous Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program (WOSTEP) in Switzerland. Certainly a man with his talent, drive, and knowledge could set up shop virtually anywhere in the world. He must have also been aware that America wouldn’t be the easiest place to start a watchmaking company due to the fierce competitive nature of the Swiss watch industry. Perhaps the only way to express his unique view on watchmaking is to draw from the wellspring of Lancaster’s deep horological history—and actually live and work here.

 

But where does a mechanical wristwatch fit in today’s world of solid-state smart watches and inexpensive quartz movements? What does wearing one say about the individual? What about the provenance of the watch? Where and when was it made? Who made it? All these questions come to mind when considering what makes a mechanical wristwatch desirable.

 

But to Watchnews’ surprise those questions were not important to Murphy. During our tour of the RGM workshop and interview with Murphy in May 2015, the main question he asks himself is, “What kind of watch can I make that fits me?”

 

801-COE "Corps of Engineers." Photo credit: RGM Watch Co.

801-A "Aircraft" Model Photo credit: RGM Watch Co.

PS-801-BB “Baseball in Enamel” Photo credit: RGM Watch Co.

What Once Was Is Again

 

RGM’s latest wristwatch, the 801 "Corps of Engineers", is an impressive insight into the watchmaker’s creative process. The number 801, engraved on the back of the watch, represents RGM’s address at 801 W. Main St., but the design is inspired by the US Corps of Engineers pocket watches from World War I. The 801-COE watch is a testament not only to the excellence in American watchmaking but also US and Swiss cooperation during a time of great crisis in world history. Having accurate timepieces proved vital in warfare. After the initial watches made their way to Europe, the US Army asked the Swiss companies to procure more watches to reduce reliance on trans-Atlantic shipping routes. With this watch and many of his previous watches, Murphy has breathed life back into this important moment in history by not simply recreating what was but reinterpreting and making a timepiece that fits into the present.


Murphy has also drawn inspiration from America’s golden age of culture and watchmaking when he designed two other watches.  He was inspired by the 1882 American Waltham Watch Co. at the National Watch & Clock Museum when he created the Pennsylvania Series 801 Baseball “Baseball in Enamel” watch. Murphy was captivated by a watch that combined American watchmaking history with America’s pastime. The 801 "Aircraft" Model, inspired by the technical layout and colors of the Hamilton and Elgin model 37500 aircraft clock from World War II, is another example of Murphy taking a piece of the past and bringing it to the present.

What’s in a Name?

Describing Murphy as a watchmaker may be too myopic. Craftsmen, jeweler, historian, collector, clockmaker, storyteller, guillocheur, and yes, even web designer. (He created and continues to update www.rgmwatches.com). But the term artist seems to fit him the best. An artist incorporates a medium—paint, music, and, in this case, metal—into a story, message, or concept only they can see. Not restrained to the limits of expertise and training, or the fear of failure, an artist expands into many disciplines to illuminate and share their unique visions. With any luck these visions tap into the greater consciousness beyond the artist and speak to the greater world. Murphy’s visions, conjured from the rich horological roots of Lancaster County and the golden age of American craftsmanship and influence, have proven they do speak. We look forward to what he will reveal next and what his pieces will say about ourselves.​

Print Sources:

Gibbs, James W. Pennsylvania Clocks and Watches. Antique Timepieces and Their Makers. University Park, PA, and London: The Pennsylvania State University Press, 1984.

Harris, Adam R. “Baseball in Enamel: RGM Celebrates the American Pastime and Creates an American Masterpiece.” Watch & Clock Bulletin, No. 413 (January/February 2015): 16-22.

Wood, Stacy B. C. Jr. Clockmakers and Watchmakers of Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. Lancaster, PA: Lancaster County Historical Society, 1995.

Wood, Stacy B.C. Jr., and Stephen E. Kramer III. Clockmakers of Lancaster County and Their Clocks 1750-1850. Litton Educational Publishing Inc., 1977.


RGM in National GMC Commercial

We showed this on our social media but I wanted to put it on the RGM blog with a little background. 

A few months back I received an email asking if we could loan a few watches for a commercial. Of course I was glad to do so, and the result was much better then I had anticipated.  A great commercial that has a full screen shot of our RGM Model 400 Chronograph!!!!!

I think the concept of the commercial is spot on, and the quality and precision is evident in everything featured.  It's nice that RGM is the only logo you see besides GMC.

There was a nice thread talking about the commercial over on Timezone.com.

Roland


Behind the Scenes of an RGM Cover Photo

I enjoy taking the cover photos for our website.  I thought a little behind the scenes photo would be interesting.

Besides my love for watches, I also have a passion for cameras and photography.  When taking a still life picture like this I try to find the best objects that help tell the story, or add a visual element that draws you into the photograph.  With the 801-BB "Baseball in Enamel' I knew I would need some vintage baseball items.  First is an old baseball bat from when I was a child. Then I found an umpires ball and strike counter from the late 1800's.  A few copies of patent drawings and a vintage baseball and all the elements were at hand for a great picture. And yes the watch is the icing on the cake!

I used my Fuji XPro-1 and a few flashes, then droped it in Lightroom to make a few adjustments.  

Regards, Roland

More inspration from America's Great Watchmaking Past.

The unique winding click of the RGM 801 movement is inspired by the Illinois Watch Company's "Illini" model and the deep polished winding wheels are finished like those of the Illinois "Bunn Special" and the "Illini" model.  Like the great Railroad watches from America's past, the 801 has a high grade finish that denotes the quality of its construction. 

RGM's In-House 801 Movement Bridge Shapes

Like many things that we do at RGM, the 801 is inspired by America's great watchmaking past.  The bridges are reminiscent of the Keystone Howard Watch Company's "Edward Howard" model, their flagship watch, and one of the highest grade watches of its time. 

The 801 has a high grade finish that denotes the quality of its construction. 

The Inspiration behind the RGM Keystone Hands

First what is a Keystone?  A keystone is a central wedge in an arch that locks all other pieces of an arch in place. It is the part of an arch that all other parts depend upon. Pennsylvania's popular nickname, "The Keystone State," refers to this necessary element.  The idea for RGM's Keystone hands came from a set of hands Roland Murphy was given when he was in watchmaking school in Lancaster, PA.  They were a thin set of gold hands with a Keystone on each hand.  He found out from some old watchmakers that they were made by Keystone Watch Company which was in Lancaster, Pa between 1886 and 1891.  Never forgetting these beautiful hands they eventually became the inspiration behind the Keystone hands he designed for RGM.

Does price determine quality?

Here at RGM we try to build with a classic, durable construction. We repair many vintage and antique watches where parts are not available. We can do this because they were made to be repaired, and the parts were not made in some exotic way that would prevent a good watchmaker from repairing or making a new part. Not all brands build with this in mind, but we do at RGM because I started in the repair-restoration world, so I know the importance of making a watch that can be serviced and repaired.

Many brands today will not sell parts to anyone, and many of the parts are made in a way that would make it difficult or impossible for a watchmaker to duplicate.  Add to that, the problem of some brands not stocking parts for previous models past 10 years and you can see the problem that’s coming up the road.

Because we repair and restore watches made by many brands including new, vintage and antique, we can see the differences and the changes in construction.  Many very expensive watches made today are designed on the limit.  Here is what I mean: the Brooklyn Bridge was designed and built when the heaviest load it would need to hold was a team of horses and a wagon.  Today the Brooklyn Bridge holds large trucks with fully loaded trailers and it is over 100 years old. If it were designed only for the needs of its day, it would be long gone.  The same is true in watches; take a 1940’s typical average watch movement. It is designed to last; even with years of use, dry oil, and dirt present, you can still wind it and it will try to run. Winding and setting works fine and with a service and a few adjustments most will work fine.   Compare that to some very expensive high end watches made today (names withheld to protect the guilty).  I have seen watches only a few years old with destroyed winding and setting systems, and ones with poorly designed automatic winding systems that no longer work.  The problem, designing on the limit, the computer tells them the part is strong enough to do the job, but add a little dirt and dry lubricant and it can’t take the load anymore and breaks.  Some very complicated watches made today have the same problems and 10 or 20 years up the road will just be expensive paper weights.

Personally, I do not see the point in making a mechanical watch using very high tech materials, or processes to make the parts, especially when it makes the watches less durable and shortens their lifespan.

My two cents

Roland Murphy

 

One of My Favorite Books on Watchmaking

Watchmaking by George Daniels

When I first heard about George Daniels book on watchmaking it was back in the early 1980's, I quickly found one and purchased it.   I spent many hours reading it and studying the drawings, it has many wonderful drawings by the way.  It really was one of the early inspirations that made me think about making my own watches.   

The book also as a wonderful chapter on Engine-Turning, it was my first introduction to this wonderful art and craft.  Never forgetting this years later I pursued finding a Rose Engine of my own, I found one in the 1990's and made the purchase which was a big one for me so it was a gamble.  It truly was the beginning of the long journey to learn the art of Guillochè. 

I would recommend this book for the professional, enthusiast, and anyone with an interest in things mechanical.  I still have my original first edition copy, and I have a third edition and still refer to all these years later.

Thank you for your time.

Roland G. Murphy

The Popular Mechanics Guide to Watches

The Popular Mechanics Guide to Watches

Watches are extraordinary things. Feats of engineering you can strap to your wrist. Whether you choose mechanical or quartz, traditional or smart, your watch has an important role: It lets people know who you are. Even if that’s just a guy who wants to know the time without reaching into his pocket.

The Last American Watchmaker The greatest timepieces in the world come from Switzerland. And Amish Country. By Josh Ozersky

On the corner of a nondescript block in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, is a bank, or what used to be a bank. Now it is the home of Roland G. Murphy Watch Company, the country’s only true independent elite watchmaker. Inside, Murphy’s son-in-law, Adam Robertson, is bent over an old watchmaker’s drill press that looks like it was made during the Korean War. He uses an abrasive bit to create burnished, circular perlage on the underside of the main plate of the watch movement. He is focused and unmoving, his attention riveted to the plate, whose decoration no one will ever see. Later he’ll hand-polish the bevels of the screw holes on the tiny bridge that holds the wheel-train gears in place.

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High-end watchmaking has not, for the most part, always been something you find in Amish country. Or, for that matter, in the United States. Typically, if you go looking for horological greatness, the kind of virtuosic craftsmanship associated with the greatest watchmakers, you go to Switzerland. If you are looking for scrapple, you go to Pennsylvania. But Murphy, the 53-year old owner and sole proprietor of the watchmaking company that bears his name, is the exception. Like some of the small European companies directed by a single watchmaker, RGM makes fewer than 300 watches a year. In contrast, the brands worshipped by most enthusiasts – Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin – produce tens of thousands a year. Rolex produces 2,000 a Of course, Rolex doesn’t operate in a space that looks more like an Elks Lodge than a watch manufacturer, with a collection of vintage cameras filling shelf after shelf, along with various other mementos. But then Murphy himself doesn’t fit the bill of a classic watchmaker. Burly, and with a thick head of salt-and-pepper hair and a bushy moustache to match, he looks more like a Pop Warner football coach. Like most watchmakers, he started out doing repairs, and found himself drawn to the silent, obsessive work of creating tiny universes of absolute order. After a few years of working on clocks, he found his way to Switzerland, where he made the horological equivalent of the big leagues: training at the Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Education Program, the Swiss watch industry’s official certification program in Neuchâtel. Not long afterward Murphy landed at Hamilton Watch Company, where he eventually rose to an executive development position.

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Hamilton, it ought to be noted, is a famous American watch brand. But the dirty secret of nearly all American watch brands, Murphy’s excepted, is that they are either owned by the Swatch Group outright or utilize movements built and exported by one of its subsidiaries. Most of the American watch companies you’ve heard about are using Swiss movements and Chinese casings. And none even tries to produce the kind of arcane complications – a whirling tourbillon that compensates for gravity, say, or a precision moon-phase subdial – associated with the Patek Philippes and Jaeger-LeCoultres of the world. RGM makes what are by far the most intricate and ambitious timepieces produced in the United States. But they aren’t just clones of Swiss watches either. They’re inspired by the tough, durable railroad watches of industrial America. The paradox, of course, is that this rugged practicality is actually pure poetry. A $40 Casio G-Shock keeps more accurate time than a Breguet; a hot-pink Swatch a fourth-grader wears in the pool is more reliable than a watch that costs more than her home. When you think about it, there’s no reason for anyone to create in-house movements for an American watch. Murphy’s quixotic commitment to craftsmanship has no value to anyone but an equally idealistic buyer. Nowhere is this clearer than in Murphy’s masterpiece, the Pennsylvania Tourbillon. A mechanical watch, no matter how perfectly made, is affected slightly by gravity. The rhythm of its escapement, the part of the movement that regulates timekeeping, varies slightly based on how the watch is positioned. Not that anybody other than watchmakers would care or even notice. But the gravity problem stymied them, and so in 1801, Abraham-Louis Breguet patented a rotating cage to suspend the escapement, freeing it from the effects of gravity. Manufacturing a tourbillon is incredibly hard, which is why almost nobody does it. It’s also why two or three guys doing it in a Pennsylvania bank building borders on the fantastic.

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Two bridges hold the tourbillon cage in place. Murphy and his master watchmaker, Benoît Barbé, bore tiny holes in the bridges to mount the escape wheel, pallet, and balance. They friction-fit a gold ring inside each hole and a jewel inside each ring. The 90-degree angle of the drilling, the depth of the holes, and the ring-and-jewel fittings must be precise to ensure the perfect relative positioning of the parts. The slightest variation would ruin the mechanism.The completed tourbillon turns 360 degrees once per minute, driven by a tiny spring coiled around the central axis. All of this work, by the way, can only be done by hand. A few of the parts can be machined, but even those parts are usually made by equipment the two men created themselves.

Murphy doesn’t build watches for himself or his buyer. He builds for an ideal: that things should always be better than what’s necessary. “We don’t design on the limit,” Murphy says. “Think about the Brooklyn Bridge. How much weight do you think it had to bear when they built it? Some horse carriages? Some pedestrians? Today there are giant semi trucks going over it all day, and it supports that weight because it wasn’t designed to the limit. That’s something we take pride in.” And it’s something you won’t find anywhere else in America.

RGM Celebrates the American Pastime

RGM Celebrates the American Pastime and Creates an American Masterpieceby Adam R. Harris, National Watch & Clock Museum Gallet Guest Wristwatch Curator

I had the great privilege of being invited to tour the factory of one of the last true watchmakers who designs and manufactures wristwatches in the United States—RGM Watch Co. The day culminated with the unveiling of his latest wristwatch—Baseball in Enamel—at the NAWCC headquarters.

The Tour

Founder Roland G. Murphy met us outside RGM’s design and manufacturing workshop at 801 West Main Street, Mount Joy, PA, not far from the NAWCC headquarters in Columbia. RGM employs only 12 staff; of course, most of them are watchmakers, who were on hand to demonstrate the stages of making a wristwatch. Because of size constraints, RGM had to limit its second open house on the premises to about 60 people. We were split into groups of about 10 each for the tour. The ground floor is spacious and bright—a large room with high ceilings and excellent light—carefully laid out with benches, test equipment, and Roland’s famous Rose Engine machines, used for fine movement and dial guilloché.

Our first stop was the timing machines and optical comparator. To most watch enthusiasts the accuracy of a watch is as important as its aesthetics—maybe even more so. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but the accuracy of the timepiece is understood by all. Watch enthusiasts look for accuracy of plus or minus two to three seconds a day, even with a mechanical piece—not an easy task considering differing temperatures, humidity, and the array of positions a watch on the wrist goes through in a day. That means RGM must not only test for six positions but also push for amplitude results greater than demanded by most manufacturers in the industry. The amplitude is the maximum angle in degrees through which the balance wheel swings right and left from its position of rest. RGM wants no amplitude position below 240 degrees.

We watched in awe because the movement being worked on had more than 120 pieces. Some movements with multiple complications have over 200 parts, and many of the parts are so small that picking them up even with tweezers is nearly impossible. This job requires much skill and immense patience. A piece may have to be adjusted many times until it runs within the testing requirements RGM demands. Sample screws are used during the process, and the final highly polished blued steel screws are used only when the technician is 100 percent satisfied the movement is running over time to a perfect specification.

Our watchmaker during this part of the tour—Helen Powell—explained that although she’s worked at RGM for more than 10 years, she’s been assembling 801’s for just over a year. One movement can sometimes take three weeks to put together correctly to the high standard demanded by RGM.

Next, we watched Roland at work on a Neuwiler Rose Engine. There are only a few craftsmen with the skill of guilloché, and Roland stands among these remaining experts. Guilloché is a form of engraving that decorates objects with geometric patterns. The French engineer Guillot is reputed to have invented it. It is also referred to as an engine-turning machine. People who can operate the machine are as rare as the machines themselves. Seeing Roland’s son (also named Roland) work on a second Rose machine as he painstakingly learns the trade was another highlight of the day to me.

Engine turning is time consuming and unforgiving. The speed of rotation and amount of pressure are manually controlled. An absolutely steady hand and total concentration are essential to ensure regularity of the pattern and correct consistent depth of the engraving. One lapse of concentration may produce visible flaws, causing the piece to be scrapped. Later in the day I saw the younger Roland’s result. Somewhere he made a miscalculation and the curves have not all lined up. In financial terms a whole day’s work was wasted. In true terms it’s just part of a long learning curve.

The next part of the tour was in the basement where RGM has its CNC milling machines and where it performs plate and bridge finishing. The CNC machine and the various finishing posts are in the basement because milling and finishing metal parts cause dust and vibration, which are detrimental to the manufacture of timepieces, especially wristwatches with their tiny subassemblies. The room and equipment were spotless, and it all looked as immaculate as the upstairs “clean” area. In any watch movement (excluding the Swatch watch), the plate is the biggest part. It is like the chassis that holds the bridges and all the other parts in a watch. The plate can vary in shape, depending on the watch, and is gold- plated, or rhodium-plated brass. The traditional material in high-end watchmaking is German silver, sometimes called nickel silver. It is just 20 percent nickel, while the rest is copper and zinc. The plate is manufactured by an elaborate process of milling, turning, drilling, and tapping—a painstaking process fraught with complications. RGM uses only German silver for all its bridges and plates.

At RGM this room accommodates not only many machines but also two young and very capable men—Ryan Hufford and Adam Robertson. Ryan clearly explained the operations and is as passionate as any watch aficionado. He explained that the CAM software creates a program for every plate, bridge, or milled part. Each contains thousands of lines of code to painstakingly mill out each part with the highest level of precision. Ryan also told us about the debugging process that takes place during the development of a new caliber or part. Ryan started the CNC machine, which was remarkably quiet—not like the old lathe days when metal and water flew everywhere. The trick, he explained, was setting the optimal speed of the CNC machine: if too fast, the expensive drill tips wear out too soon, and if too slow, the time and cost to make each watch rises dramatically.

The next stage is what I call plate decoration and finishing, correctly called “Anglage,” “Côtes de Genève,” and “Perlage.” I knew these three decorations took time and great patience but again I was amazed at the skill and time needed for the process of anglage. The sides of the bridges are simply brushed and the bevels on the top edges are polished—that is anglage in French. The patience and skill in hand polishing the beveled edges were most surprising. The German silver is soft and simple polishing removes too much metal and worse, starts a second flat edge—something RGM would never allow on a finished timepiece. It takes immense concentration and skill to look through an X4 Loupe while polishing the beveled edge to RGM specifications.

Staff also showed us demonstrations of Côtes de Genève and perlage. In horology damaskeening is a decorative pattern engraved onto watch plates and bridges. The term “damaskeening” is used in America while in Europe the terms are “Fausses Cotes,” “Côtes de Genève,” or “Geneva Stripes.” All basically refer to the similar patterns on plates and bridges. The Launch

In 2012 the National Watch & Clock Museum had the special exhibition Time Out, which highlighted the role time plays in sports. Roland and I explored the exhibit and saw specialty watch dials. I never thought more about it, but for Roland a seed was planted. He was determined to make a wristwatch like the 1892 Waltham Baseball dial pocket watch—an exact replica down to the enamel dial as a wristwatch.

Before the unveiling, Roland gave a personal tour of the National Watch & Clock Museum. It is impressive how much he knows about horology and the pieces in the Museum, and everyone appreciated his guided tour. I certainly did, and I am a guest curator here!

The creation of an enamel dial is a high-risk art. Enameling is a technique in which colored powdered glass is applied to a metal plate. The surface is then heated to a temperature high enough to cause the powdered glass to melt and form a new surface. The Grand Feu technique ups the stakes. It involves meticulously coating a watch dial with successive layers of enamel. Once a layer is ready, the dial is heated at extremely high temperatures ranging from 1,472° to 1,652°F (800° to 900°C). The repeated baking of each individual layer ensures a uniquely crisp aesthetic and permanently sets the enamel. Using high heat to create these beautiful dials also poses a risk. Each time it is refired, the danger of cracking, melting, or burning increases. The Roman numerals and baseball figures are also baked onto the surface. An enamel dial will not fade and will look the same in 100 years as it does today. With great risk comes great reward: the appearance of a real glass enamel dial is unmistakable.

The next obstacle is finding an artisan who could create a high-quality Grand Feu (French for “Great Fire”) enamel dial. There are only a handful of master enamellers worldwide. “If I couldn’t do it right, I wasn’t going to do it,” recalls Roland. The dial had to be made exactly the way the original was made. A three-year search located an enamel artist willing to take on the project.

The Man

Two quotations came to my mind during the tour and unveiling. First, John F. Kennedy: “Ask not what your country can do for you; ask what you can do for your country.” Second, Martin Luther King Jr.: “I have a dream.” These two quotes embody the man who runs a small but important piece of watch history in the heart of Lancaster County, PA, for several reasons.

First, it is the company. RGM was founded in 1992 by American watchmaker Roland G. Murphy, and ever since he has been making watchmaking history here in America and worldwide. Roland did not ask, “What can America do for me,” but he surely—judging by the costly and indeed risky challenge in setting up a watchmaking company in the United States—asked “What can I do for America?”

In 1969 the Hamilton Watch Co. ended American watch-manufacturing operations with the closure of its factory in Lancaster, PA, and shifted manufacturing operations to the Buren factory in Switzerland. By 1972, Hamilton, founded in Lancaster in 1892, was liquidated and basically ceased to exist as we knew it.

In 1992 Roland made the difficult decision to return high-end watchmaking to Lancaster. Born in 1961 in Baltimore, MD, Roland went to vocational school for carpentry and cabinetmaking at Harford Technical High School in Belair, MD, during his last two years of high school. He worked summers as a carpenter’s helper and spent his last year of high school in school for half the day and working at Danecker Clock Co. in Fallston, MD, the other half. He graduated in 1980 after which he made clock repairs from his parents’ home. From the summer of 1986 through December 1987 Roland attended WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program). He started RGM in 1992.

At the RGM tour I could see that modern manufacturing coexists with antique, hand-operated machinery. Hand-blued screws and hand-polished components are at home among the close tolerances afforded by automated machines. RGM has five vintage machines for engine turning; three Rose Engines and two Straight Line Engines. The Plant Rose Engine gets the heaviest use.

The 12-member staff does not just manufacture and assemble all the components that make a wristwatch. The individual parts are lovingly prepared, assembled, and tested. Each part is brought into existence with the same high level of care and attention. Attention to detail is obvious in the finishing and decoration, in the shape of the German silver bridges, and in the quality of finishing on the steel parts. These watches are made to last forever. In the words of perhaps today’s greatest Swiss watchmaker, Patek Philippe, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe; you merely look after it for the next generation.” So it is with an RGM timepiece. RGM’s goal is to offer not only the finest watches made in the United States but the finest watches available. Roland and his team firmly believe that this requires equal efforts to improve current methods while preserving tradition.

In the 1880s the great age of modernized watchmaking began in America. Today, both history and watchmaking are alive and well at RGM. Roland not only makes outstanding quality timepieces but he shares his success locally. His small team is young and old and they have one thing in common—they are all local. And this extends beyond staff to materials. Whatever

Roland cannot make in-house, he attempts to procure locally. A local company makes parts for watch cases that he does not make in-house. Roland takes the same approach when it comes to launching an exciting new product. He chooses to do so at the nearby NAWCC Museum, asking all his invited visitors to make a small donation that he presented to the Museum’s preservation funds.

Finally, in terms of his dream, Roland as a watchmaker says, “Anyone who works in high-end watches, especially who is building them, wants his own movement. That’s really the heart of the watch. That is where it starts.” Where it all comes together for him is 801 West Main Street, Mount Joy, PA, inside the RGM design and manufacturing offices. In fact, 801 is the caliber (and name) of Roland’s first original movement; it relies still on some Swiss parts, including the jewels, balance, and hairspring, but the wheels, bridges, and mainplates are all manufactured here, and every timepiece is fully assembled and tested at 801 West Main Street.

In 2007 Roland turned that dream into reality with the caliber 801, a 16-ligne in-house movement that took about seven years to develop. It is so versatile that it can be used for either a wristwatch or a pocket watch. In 2010 Roland launched the first Tourbillon series ever made in the United States, the caliber MM2 Pennsylvania Tourbillon. That new caliber, in tradition with Roland’s love for Pennsylvania, is signified by the state’s symbol—a keystone—surrounding a capital T in its logo.

In 2012 RGM celebrated 20 years of watchmaking by launching its third in-house movement, the “caliber 20.”