RGM Model 801/40-CE 40mm case
The classic architecture and good looks of RGM’s classic 801
in a more svelte case size
Model 801/40-CE “Classic Enamel” version
RGM’s time-honored 801 series watches look to the grand past of watchmaking for inspiration and base their present not on only the magnificent visuals of America’s bygone heyday of watchmaking, but also various techniques for longevity, precision, and aesthetics. Pennsylvania-based RGM specializes in blending old-world decorative arts with expert modern production capabilities to produce reliable yet beautiful and unique timepieces that radiate a decided feel for America’s horological history.
And now this luxurious example of the ever-evolving art of watchmaking is available in a 40.3 mm diameter, the smallest possible to house the 801 movement. Model 801/40 can comfortably and elegantly fit more wrists than ever.
RGM Model 801/40: Genuine enamel dial
The proportions and details of this RGM design are aesthetic, easy to read, and historically inclined, with the U.S. brand creating a timeless layout on a multilevel “double-sunk” grand feu enamel dial that could just as well have belonged to a vintage pocket watch. The mixture of Arabic numerals marking the minutes and the small seconds and elegant Roman numerals depicting the hours is a classically eye-catching combination. The numerals are joined by a minute track dotted with tiny pyramid-shaped marks for the five-minute intervals, while the small seconds dial follows on with a subtle railroad track.
The central dial features a simple, classic brand logo that favors a vintage-style text form additionally denoting the company’s place of origin. The classically beautiful blued-steel hands are Breguet style, for many aficionados – as well as for RGM founder Roland Murphy – the ultimate hand shape.
The making of a grand feu enamel dial of this caliber is a long process steeped in tradition. As the dial has three components – the outer ring, the inset central panel, and the doubly inset small seconds subdial (hence the “double-sunk” description) – each must be enameled individually. Each of these components must be independently fired numerous times as the enamel slowly builds up to create the incredible depth that the final product displays. Grand feu is one of the most difficult enameling processes thanks to the many possibilities for something to go wrong in the multiple firing steps: each time a section is fired, a new opportunity for dust, a bubble, or cracking is presented, which could lead to a warped surface.
To achieve the perfection seen here, a master enameller carefully works the dial using the prescribed process to obtain crisp, pure white enamel with exquisite depth and sophisticated translucency that cannot be created using any other method. While RGM has extensive experience with guilloche and dial-making in-house, these grand feu enamel dials are produced by a master of the craft in Switzerland.
RGM Model 801/40: Case and Crystal
The style of model 801/40’s 40.3 x 9.3 mm stainless-steel case is reminiscent of vintage wristwatches, and the box-style sapphire crystal completes the classic look and contributes to the slim design aesthetic. Turning the watch over, the view from the back has watch enthusiasts catching their breath as all the vintage-style beauty from the front is more than mirrored in Caliber 801, which dominates the rear view of this special timepiece.
RGM Caliber 801
Under the extraordinary dial is RGM’s original in-house movement: Caliber 801 exemplifies all the qualities that RGM holds dear. Inspired by America’s great watchmaking history, this classic movement displays the traditions of America’s greatest manufacturers. Its classic bridge shapes are strongly reminiscent of Keystone-Howard Watch Company’s Edward Howard model. This was a historical watch company in operation from 1902 through 1930 in Waltham, Massachusetts. Caliber 801’s unique winding click was inspired by that found within the Illinois Bunn Special, an American-invented motor barrel the likes of which was only used in highest-grade railroad watches. Its design is beneficial to the quality of the movement as it transmits energy efficiently by reducing friction.
The finely finished Caliber 801 was conceived from the start to be customized to the client's wishes in terms of decoration, plating, and other elements. A point of pride for both RGM and its clients, the Caliber 801 is the first serial mechanical watch movement manufactured in the United States since 1969 when Hamilton stopped producing its Caliber 992 B.
The classic American architecture is enough to evoke emotion in anyone even remotely interested in watches. Many of the components of Caliber 801 are also made right in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, USA, and finished by hand; 90 % of this movement is made in the USA.
This movement displays RGM’s masterful command of classic watchmaking from an American perspective.
Variations and Options
Since RGM makes fewer than 300 timepieces annually, customization is one of the great services this American watchmaker can offer. Naturally, other dial and hand versions can be ordered for this watch. It can also feature dials in the style of many existing watches in RGM’s repertoire: the 801/40-COE “Corps of Engineers” offers a World War I-style enamel dial with sweep seconds, while the 801/40-EE displays a unique combination of enamel dial with RGM’s in-house engine-turning applied directly to the movement and showing through from the front. The 801/40-E model has a fully handmade engine-turned dial produced in-house at RGM in Pennsylvania.
“We are also happy to make custom versions of this new watch as we do with our other models,” says Murphy of the new 801/40. RGM is known for its custom watches as it can alter not only the appearance of a watch according to a customer’s wishes, but also the movement. RGM offers technical options such as precision hacking seconds (which stops the second hand when the crown is pulled out for precise setting), beautiful wolf’s teeth winding wheels, custom engraving on the balance bridge, RGM’s own motor barrel system, a spring barrel design inspired by older pocket watch movements, and a swan-neck regulator in place of an index.
The 801 model watches have thus far been available in 43.3 mm (Pennsylvania series) and 42 mm. The brand-new model 801/40 is the smallest available at 40.3mm.